From Shanghai to short film, fashion is looking for new catwalks

María Luísa FunesMaría Luísa Funes



Alternative salad. Fashion continues to change, plummeting towards futuristic formats, although also taking up the traditional physical fashion shows like a little boy returning to the arms of his mother. In the same week that the curious is taking place GucciFest Online, the next face-to-face fashion shows in Paris for January and February. Pure contradiction.

In October, the Shanghái Fashion Week with almost a hundred physical presentations, which featured some of the most typical areas of the city as the setting. For example, the Xintiandi neighborhood, a pedestrian area where shops, bookstores and restaurants have populated the typical nineteenth century shikumens, those traditional little houses located between alleys and that tourists like so much. This fashion week, a pioneer in the digital format, continues to insist on the importance of offering online alternatives to its recently held face-to-face shows. Precisely in the country where the Covid-19 pandemic broke out, social life already works regularly.

Kim Basigner poses for MiuMiu
Kim Basigner poses for MiuMiu

The Shanghai catwalk has also been enriched with initiatives such as Labelhood, an independent fashion show platform, which is a kind of incubator for new emerging fashion brands in China. Computer animations, WeChat games or short films alternated with physical parades, events that in the Asian giant are considered irreplaceable. The sales showrooms have taken place in digital format, with the consequent decrease in costs.

Meanwhile, the French, always with the intention of overshadowing Italian fashion and leading the sector, insist on returning to the lifelong shows, announcing the dates for the men’s collections in Paris (from January 19 to 24) and of the Haute Couture Week (from January 25 to 28), as if the digital parades were not with them. And Kim Jones, the creative director of Dior Homme, will present the new collection of the Parisian house in Beijing, on December 8.

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All of this takes place as the GucciFest, an online initiative proposed by the Florentine house that tries to reinvent fashion and which has been taking place this week (until tomorrow, November 22). Among his many proposals, he has highlighted a series of shorts directed by Gus Van Sant with actors dressed 100% in Gucci. The creative director of the house, Alessandro Michele, declared months ago that Gucci would limit itself to two shows per season, but now it seems to want to untie its releases from the usual calendar.

Billie Eilish

The GucciFest, where singers have appeared in profusion Billie EilishandHarry Styles, has also unveiled the new collection «Ouverture of something that never ended»And the making off of this year’s advertising campaigns, as well as a wide variety of proposals, including some belonging to innovative creators, such as Collina Strada or Bianca Saunders. The idea is to turn the brand into the factotum of the world of culture, cinema and fashion, positioning it in a privileged place to try to lead the sector. In addition to Gucci, other brands – such as MiuMiu with Kim Basinger (66 years old) – turn to great stars of other times to star in their advertising campaigns, taking up the idea of ​​inclusion in all areas. Very successful.

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