Nerja on Andalusia’s Costa del Sol was little more than a dream town until 1959. Then, by chance, five students discovered a cave of incomparable beauty: the Cueva de Nerja. But no one could have guessed in their wildest dreams what the consequences would be for the town.
There are probably not many places in the world where one day can be said to have suddenly changed them forever. Nerja on the Spanish Costa del Sol is one such place. And this has to do with the discovery of a spectacular stalactite cave more than 60 years ago. The Cueva de Nerja is one of the most breathtaking natural wonders in the country, if not the world. But no one could have imagined then what the spectacular find would really mean for the small town.
It is January 12, 1959, when five friends take a trip to the hills around Nerja after school. According to the newspaper, José Torres, the brothers Miguel and Manuel Muñoz, Francisco Navas and José Luis Barbero are “The diary‘ in the suburb of Maro when they saw a huge swarm of bats coming out of a well. Driven by curiosity and equipped with lanterns and hammers, they decide to follow the tracks of the animals underground. But what they discover after a short time, no fantasy author could have imagined in his wildest dreams.
The discovery that changed Nerja forever
Before them opens a huge stalactite cave, which is said to have gained worldwide fame shortly after the Cueva de Nerja. Almost unbelievable formations of stalactites and stalagmites tower before the boys in bizarre formations. But they also find something else that makes them flee in panic: human skeletons. Back home, they tell their teacher about their discovery and only a few days later return to the cave with a photographer. A short time later, events take a turn for the worse.
The images of the Cueva de Nerja appear first in the newspaper Sur in Malaga, and from there it spread like wildfire through publications all over the world. In Nerja, until then a sleepy place where people mainly make their living from agriculture and fishing, the huge tourist potential of the extraterrestrial cave is immediately visible. And so it was only open to visitors a year and a half after its discovery. Haste does not wait.
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The cave is even in the Guinness book
Because what can be seen in the Cueva de Nerja is probably truly unique in the world. Over a length of 4328 meters there are majestic halls in three sectors filled with sometimes huge stalactites. Their age is estimated to be up to five million years, and one of them is even in the Guinness Book of Records. A mighty tower with a circumference of 32 meters and a diameter of 18 meters, yet only one of the magical highlights of the force of nature.
The result is almost unbridled tourism, which quickly becomes a threat to the Cueva de Nerja. And so today a large part of the cave is no longer accessible to the public. Also because sensitive and unique flora and fauna thrive here. But still come according to the official site of the cave more than 400,000 people a year to see the natural wonder with their own eyes. And you have to, because in view of this show, any superlative written here would be laughable.
Like a parallel universe
I can only say that the descent into the Cueva de Nerja was like a trip to a dream world. The low light contributes to the mystical atmosphere where the gigantic rock formations appear like giants from a parallel universe. While it’s an almost impossible exam to pass, try to see primarily with your eyes and not through the camera. Even as it stands, it’s quite difficult to figure out that the cave is actually real.
If you want to visit the Cueva de Nerja, it’s best to take the bus to Maro and take a short walk from there. You can also walk the whole six kilometers from Nerja. However, I can say from experience that the route is not particularly attractive, despite the splendid view of the sea, especially as it runs along a highway. Another much more expensive alternative is the tourist train which leaves from Nerja, but also stops at all the main hotels in the town. This could be a good alternative, especially for older visitors.
And while the 15 euro entrance fee may seem expensive at first glance, you can hardly get your money’s worth better. TRAVELBOOK insider tip: if you come around 1pm, you avoid the big crowds of tourists, because then many locals are seated at the table. The entrance ticket also includes the museum (closed on Mondays) where you can learn all about the Cueva de Nerja and its history. Also where did the human bones the five friends found come from. But that would take too far at this point.
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The best of the sea and the land
Instead, let’s go from the Cueva de Nerja to the city itself, because it is also worth seeing in itself. Spectacularly situated on a cliff-lined beach, Narya is now a tourist city through and through. But not in an unpleasant way, because especially during the week you can still stroll relatively “undisturbed” through the narrow streets and alleys. In addition to the obligatory gift shops, Nerja’s culinary appeal is particularly appealing. The city on the coast offers the best and freshest of sea and land for every taste.
Here fish and seafood lovers can choose freely. The quality is particularly high in the “Puerta del Mar”, where you can choose your own catch of the day from the ice-cold counter. This is then prepared to taste and filleted at the table while enjoying the view of the coast and the sea at one of the tables. This only gets better in ‘Ancient Rome’ which has arguably the most spectacular terrace in Nerja and excellent cuisine.
Toy shop for adults
A must-see for ham, cheese and sausage lovers is the “Jamoneria Alcauza”. Since 1974, the owner Antonio, as his father before him, has been receiving the exquisite delicacies from the same family in Salamanca. The region is particularly known and appreciated for its ham. And so all the legs and big sausages hang from the ceiling of the shop, which is like a toy store for food-enthusiastic adults.
We recommend the mixed tapas platter. You have a little bit of everything and Antonio cuts it fresh by hand in front of your eyes. The tastes, smells and all other impressions are worth more than the high prices and in the end you can even take something home with you. Truly an absolute must in Nerja. I actually just wanted to grab a quick bite here and stayed until the shop closed.
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Culture and beautiful views
The small town also has something to offer in terms of culture and nightlife, you just have to find it. Unique is “El Molino”, an old oil mill converted into a bar in 1963. If you’re lucky, the owner Fernando himself will be on flamenco guitar and sing some melancholic songs in his powerful voice. Even the interior resembles a movie set because it actually was. In the 1980s, parts of the “Verano Azul” series, which was very popular in Spain, were filmed here.
A nice conclusion is a visit to the “Balcón de Europa”, Nerja’s promenade by the sea. From here you have a wonderful view of the waves and the vastness of the world to the horizon. The contrast with the subterranean beauty of the Cueva de Nerja could not be greater, but that is precisely what makes this place so special. And don’t be upset if the photos at home don’t look as spectacular as you remember. As you know, it is only with the heart that one can see clearly.
