Märkische Schweiz: Hike through the Brandenburg “Mini-Alps”.

Travel

The Märkische Schweiz near Berlin lives up to its nickname: because the Brandenburg “Mini-Alps” offer hikers varied and quite challenging routes in untouched nature. Nestled between several beautiful lakes, the small town of Buckow is an ideal starting and ending point for an exciting day trip – and it also surprises in many other respects. Our author has made a hike in the nature park for you.

“Wow, it’s beautiful here!” A phrase like that makes your heart pound, especially when you deliver it in utter surprise and excitement at an unexpected discovery you’ve just made. I felt the same way when I recently went on a day hike around the little Buckow in the Märkische Schweiz Nature Park. And I found much more beautiful things than I had hoped for. Namely not only a varied route in the most beautiful nature and extensive solitude, but also a wonderful place that really enchanted me in many ways.

The day trip starts at an unnamed kiosk right on the Schermutzelsee promenade – and almost ends there, because you really don’t want to walk any further. The crew at the small snack bar just delivered a wonderful fish sandwich to the counter, along with the view of the turquoise green water lined with reeds. Hard to imagine it could be nicer somewhere right now. A 93-year-old elderly woman, who looks over 80 and sits here every day, also thinks so. I guess that keeps her so young. Or the fact that Buckow is a recognized Kneipp spa resort and in many other respects so different from comparable places in the Brandenburg suburbs.

Fontana’s advice

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Many beautiful routes: Märkische Schweiz is a real paradise for hikers and water and forest loversPhoto: dpa picture alliance/Patrick Pleul

Then a homemade plum cake and then a coffee, before starting the trek. There is hardly anywhere else where you can get to know Märkische Schweiz as well as on the 20-kilometer nature park route, which I would like to hike today. Directly behind the Buckow lido is the trail marker for the first time, which from there will guide me safely through the village all day long and never get lost. A red dot on a white background, the signage is absolutely spotless all along the route. And I’m immediately glad that I moved on, that I was able to free myself from the Buckower spell.

Because the tour starts very well and gives an insight into why the landscape is also advertised with the slogan “Brandenburg Mini-Alps”. The path, always clearly recognizable, leads through a wonderful mixed deciduous forest of beech, oak and maple through a hilly landscape that was created when the great glaciers retreated at the end of the last ice age. A good indicator of the presumed beauty of a territory: just check in advance whether the German writer Theodor Fontane has already written about it. If this is the case, as is the case in Märkische Schweiz, then a great day’s hiking awaits you.

Also of interest: Neustrelitz: the pearl of the world natural heritage at the gates of Berlin

An almost historic place

And so it is already, the Stobber-Bach, which also flows through Buckow, meanders muttering and bubbling through the deep silent forest. Here and there a beaver castle, rudds dart through the shallow water, you hardly meet other hikers. Beyond the small and large Tornowsee, nothing but peace and fresh, earthy-smelling air. The water mirror will appear again and again directly along the trail, in some places there are even Kneipp foot baths in the middle of the stream, where tired hikers can refresh their feet. Elsewhere it leaves behind flooded meadows and a now sparse alluvial forest dominated by alder trees.

A longer first stop then inside Three Oaks Environment Center, where coffee, cake and freshly squeezed juice promise refreshment. There is also a tent meadow, and you can also rent a room here for little money in the almost historic-looking inn. The place is specially designed for families and school classes who come here for supervised wild weeks and learn about nature. Not even an employee can tell how long the farm has been there: “But there are always 70-year-olds who tell us they were here as kids.”

emigrant dreams

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The Great Tornowsee is one of the many natural attractions along the route through the Märkische Schweiz Nature ParkPhoto: dpa picture alliance/Patrick Pleul

Furthermore, the place is apparently a haven for big-city-weary Berliners. Several families here mourn the emigration blues and dream of escaping to Märkische Schweiz because of the beauty of Buckow and its surroundings. I, who was born in Spandau, have always kept out of the jungle of the city center as much as possible, I carry on with understanding. And with the desire to get to know Märkische Schweiz better as soon as possible during a longer stay in the beautiful Drei Eichen-Hof.

Continue now, again in the most beautiful solitude, through the hilly landscape towards Waldsieversdorf. Experienced hikers can smooth the way here. Because if you look closely, you will sometimes discover different types of mushrooms along the way. During my tour I found porcini mushrooms, chestnuts and even a fat porcini. At the same time, as an experienced hiking guide and lifelong nature lover, I have to warn you at this point: If you’re not 100% sure what kind of mushroom you’re dealing with, leave it alone. A large number of blackberries are waiting as a “consolation prize”.

Also interesting: because the Havelradweg is an ideal tour for beginners

Lovable landmark

Passing the large and small Däbersee on the Kreuzfißbrücke, you are already in the dreamy Waldsieversdorf. A short, steep climb up the stairway to heaven leads to one of the most beautiful views along the way. Because here, in the middle of the village, there is one that is very well preserved Water tower, which you can also scale. 11 meters high, from the top you have a splendid view over the large, densely wooded country. With a telescope mounted on the viewing platform, you can see even further. A folding table and two chairs as well as a small book chest inside the tower invite you to linger.

Now begins the scenically most beautiful, but also the most demanding part of the route. The so-called Panoramaweg now leads high above the Schermützelsee along its shore to Buckow. This also proves why Märkische Schweiz advertises itself with the slogan “Mini-Brandenburg Alps”. It has a good pace going up and down, the trails are really steep at times, yes, sweaty for a first timer. But the view is unique, the water shines like an emerald through the dense forest, the cell phone camera shines in search of the most beautiful motif.

As popular as Prenzlauer Berg in Berlin

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The “Scherri” guides tourists in Märkische Schweiz across the SchermutzelseePhoto: dpa picture alliance/Patrick Pleul

Due to the very demanding course profile here, some fatigue can spread. Descending towards the shore of the lake, the last stretch begins, where numerous very attractive bathing possibilities open up in the middle of the woods. Märkische Schweiz has really shown its most beautiful face for a whole day over the 20 kilometers and I’m tired and happy. And also very surprised, because there is still a lot to do in Buckow in the evening. Whole crowds dine in the balmy summer air in the many busy restaurants, children scurry about on the large playground, you might as well be in the Kollwitz-Kiez in Prenzlauer Berg in Berlin.

There’s also a tapas bar, and not far away is a yoga studio that attracts quite a few city dwellers with offerings like “Mantra singing with Patrick.” On the shore of the Schermützelsee, however, it is now wonderfully silent and lonely, while the sunset turns the sky into a colorful cinema screen. The excursion boat “Scherri” has long been anchored in the mirror-smooth water, tomorrow it will bring the many day tourists again across the fairytale lake. My heart has long ago decided that I too would like to return to Märkische Schweiz soon. Brandenburg’s smallest nature park with its magnificent landscape.

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