The first day of MBFWMadrid starts with a cultural journey through fabrics and garments

fashion

Marta Benayas Alamos

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The capital is these days the epicenter of fashion with the celebration of the MBFWM, that starts today, until next Sunday, its 74th edition loaded with force. Parades that will be carried out with strict security measures but somewhat more relaxed than before. The two great novelties are the expansion of the capacity to 42% of the capacity and the opening of doors to the general public, both on the catwalk and in the Cyberspace. A ‘normality’ that the designers have celebrated with enthusiasm when showing their proposals both in pavilion 14.1 of Ifema and in different locations in the city.

The Madrid fairgrounds are being these days the epicenter of the shows, but since last Monday there have been several designers who have presented their collections, such as Roberto Verino, García Madrid, Ailanto and Jorge Vazquez; with a very careful staging where the common denominator has been originality and elegance raised to the maximum power.

Designers at the MBFWM presentation
Designers at the MBFWM presentation – © Gtres

Also in this edition it is committed to digitization, with additional multimedia content on the organization’s platform and hybrid presentations that complement the face-to-face ones. Besides, the Association of Fashion Creators of Spain (ACME) together with the support of Madrid Capital de Moda will carry out during these days a series of activities in different Madrid enclaves where fashion will be the main protagonist and with which the experience will be much more complete.

The key points for the season are reviewed below spring / summer 2022 in each of the parades of this first day of MBFWMadrid.

Andres Sarda

Final carousel of the Andres Sarda spring / summer 2022 fashion show
Final carousel of the Andres Sarda spring / summer 2022 show – © San Bernardo

Nuria Sardá follows in the wake of her previous proposals where she wants to take a trip through a sensual and elegant lingerie focused on highlighting feminine attributes with a very daring approach. For this collection, the Asian culture It has been its common thread, where the fabrics and patterns – many of them recycled – evoke the most significant elements of the Far East.

To the classic lace and transparencies we must add the use of silks and Swarovski crystal appliques, very present in the first part of the proposal, while the second acquires a retro-futuristic air with a great presence of shiny materials such as vinyl or patent leather. A collection full of movement in which there is no lack of details such as pagodas, XXL collars, fringes and pronounced ruffles, along with large flared-sleeved gowns and cummerbunds that add drama to each look.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada spring / summer 2022 fashion show
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada spring / summer 2022 fashion show – © San Bernardo

To the rhythm of ‘reggaeton’ and with Omar Montes as star guest, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada has made those present dance with a show that had nothing to envy the best parties in the capital. While the models paraded, a large screen simultaneously displayed more looks, which together with the multicolored floor, gave even more force to the staging.

The collection radiated vitalism and joy, very much in line with its line, with garments that, unlike previous proposals, included garments with more urban cuts where the occasional tracksuit was seen. The iconic prints such as stars, hearts or clouds have not been lacking.

As for the cuts, the most popular garment has been the ‘A’ shaped miniskirt, reminiscent of those from the seventies and which was combined with casual oversized t-shirts with the multicolored striped print as a favorite. Under this concept, fitted midi dresses, sweatshirts, palazzo pants and shirts, trapeze dresses and flared skirts that were finished off with elaborate heart-shaped headdresses have also been seen.

Fernando Claro

Fernando Claro spring / summer 2022 fashion show
Fernando Claro spring / summer 2022 fashion show – © San Bernardo

Under the name of ‘Nitro’, Fernando Claro and his daughter Beatriz have shown a Haute Couture collection designed for guests seeking to create an impact effect with its styling in which two clearly differentiated groups have been seen. On the one hand, the dresses with midi and mini silhouettes that highlight the feminine curves; and on the other, the jacket suits with very marked shoulders and waists. All with asymmetries, ruffles and some other layer that impregnates them with vintage reminiscences.

In the proposal, the predominant fabrics were focused on exploiting femininity thanks to their delicate finishes: muslin, embroidered tulle and silk poplin that contrasted with flocked glitter organzas, very seventies. The color palette has been divided into three slopes. For the first time, red has been used and the combination of black and white has been used again together with silver, which have contributed to making the overall proposal synonymous with sophistication.

Duarte

Duarte spring / summer 2022 collection
Duarte spring / summer 2022 collection – © San Bernardo

The unisex firm has configured a collection where nature is very present, ‘Lost in Paradise’, with which he calls to disconnect to reconnect thanks to the resources of the land and the sea. This work of introspection is reflected in light garments made with sustainable and recycled fabrics Among which, denim, cotton and linen stand out with other more sophisticated ones that follow the same ecological ethics such as satin or silk.

It seeks to represent light and what it evokes in nature, that is why a range of cRomantic with sandy tones combined with blues and greens. Simple and relaxed pattern styles, but with a high visual load thanks to the prints of flowers, stripes or squares and details such as crochet or embroidery that are balanced in a perfect symphony.

There is no shortage of overlays, volumes and patterns full of movement, which for the first time are complemented by a line of leather bags both for men and women and that serve as a finishing touch to outfits with their own identity without falling into excess.

Duyos

Duyos spring / summer 2020
Duyos spring / summer 2020 – © San Bernardo

In his almost three decades of experience, the Madrid-based creator has managed to find his own stamp that makes his collections easily recognizable thanks to the use of colors, fabrics and silhouettes in which he mixes both vintage and futuristic elements. On this occasion he has taken as a point of reference Madeira island, especially its vegetation and landscapes, to configure a collection where handicrafts take more importance than ever when making each of the garments.

With a color palette with green as the protagonist, it materializes an Atlantic garden with mixtures of fabrics, prints and vibrant contrasts where there is no lack of overlays and games with the most diverse patterns thanks to which it achieves sophisticated and elegant pieces. Hand-painted silks stand out, the cotton jacquares and the acid touches that recall the traditional costumes of the area and that contribute to the dressing room to fill with color.

Malne

Malne spring / summer 2022
Malne spring / summer 2022 – © San Bernardo

‘Excess’, the title of the collection by Paloma Álvarez and Juanjo Mánez with which they define a proposal that, if characterized by something, is to leave no room for discretion. The eighties reminiscences are evident in the looks where you are looking, on the one hand, make an ode to the art of sewing, with very elaborate embroidery and cuts; and on the other, highlight woman silhouette playing with the sensuality of the cuts and the movement of the fabrics.

Dresses with marked shoulder pads, embroidered tops, pagoda shoulder pads, all with light touches of gold to advance the prints and culminate with the shiny finishes that make each garment fill with strength.

Program and Off

As is usual, in addition to the parades in Ifema, various designers are committed to showing their creations in different locations in the capital. The first are the students of the University School of Design, Innovation and Technology (ESNE) who present their innovative proposal at the Palacio de Fernán Núñez.

© Courtesy of Odette Álvarez
© Courtesy of Odette Álvarez

Also on this day the Off program will host the parade of Odette Alvarez, who shows his collection at the URSO & Spa Hotel for the second time in this format, after the success of the previous edition, under the concept `see now buy now´. The designer is inspired by the sea and mermaids to create customized Haute Couture designs that highlight femininity to the fullest with resources such as bustiers, XXL shoulder pads and very marked waists; as well as embroidery with rhinestones, sequins, feathers and other beads that evoke the depths of the ocean. All this with a color palette based on turquoise, coral and black with some brushstrokes of neutral tones.

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