the risks of the beauty trend sweeping TikTok

Beauty

Araceli Nicholas

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Social networks, along with celebrities, set trends in beauty: the most fashionable haircut, the most viral manicure or the top treatment. And one of the last to succeed in TikTok is he ‘dermaplaning’. This practice consists of shave your face to remove hair and perform exfoliation. However, the problem with social networks is that, sometimes, beauty practices that go viral can be dangerous. So it is important to know the opinion of the experts to have all the information, before incorporating this trend into your beauty routine.

What is dermaplaning?

The Dr. María Marcos, dermatologist of the Facial Aesthetics Unit of the Pedro Jaén Group, explains that «’dermaplaning’ is a way of eliminating facial hair by shaving it, which also causes a rather more aggressive superficial exfoliation than other commonly used methods.

The dermatologists do not recommend it because we have other equally effective permanent treatments.”

Actually, the shaving of female facial hair is not something new. famous as Marilyn Monroe The Elizabeth Taylor They already included it in their routine. In Japan It is also a common practice. And in recent years some ‘influencers’ have gone viral again. One of the first was the makeup artist and businesswoman Huda Kattan, creator of the firm Huda Beauty, whose YouTube video has more than 4 million views.

The ‘dermaplaning’, as he comments pharmacist Eduardo Senante, head of the Senante Pharmacy de Zaragoza, «exfoliates dead skin cells and removes fine hair. It allows skin looks smoother and more radiant, and that, if makeup is applied, it is more uniform. Along with this, dermaplaning favors the penetration of beauty products, since facial hair can sometimes trap dirt and oil, which create a barrier that hinders the action of certain cosmetics. But, it is always recommended that dermaplaning be performed by a specialist in a beauty salon or in a dermatologist’s office.

The risks of doing dermaplaning at home

The temptation to practice ‘dermaplaning’ at home is high. The influence of social networks on our habits is increasing, and on TikTok there are hundreds of videos of women shaving their faces and recounting the benefits of this practice. In addition, it is cheap and very accessible, due to the wide range of facial shavers and blades. It is important to choose a tool that has been designed for this practice, and to take into account other important aspects, as experts explain.

“Must avoid ‘dermaplaning’ in sensitive or reactive skin and also in skin with active acne, since the most normal thing is that the skin condition worsens. It is a physical exfoliation, with which, although the skin does not suffer from any of these pathologies, tNor should you exceed in its frequency of realization. Another recommendation that I usually give to people who do home dermaplaning is to do not use strong chemical exfoliants (glycolic acid and other alpha hydroxy acids), ni retinoides (retinol, retinal, etc.), neither three days before nor three days later, so avoid irritations and unwanted redness,” says pharmacist Eduardo Senante.

The dermatologist María Marcos points to the «risk of changes in facial pigmentation if strict photoprotection measures are not followed after shaving. On the other hand, shaving causes skin irritation that favors skin sensitivity, a factor that deteriorates and skin ages faster.”

Finally, when practicing ‘dermaplaning’ at home you have to be very careful with the cuts. «You must never forget that deep down it is like a knife, so be careful with possible cuts and wounds. It is recommended to always use perfectly clean and well-sharpened single-use razors and never reuse them, or infections and skin damage may appear on the face”, according to Eduardo Senante.

One of the most frequent questions about this practice is whether using a blade to remove the old this will come out much stronger and in greater numbers. The answer is a resounding no, as Senante explains “shaving facial hair is not changing the structure of the hair follicle. So it will come out again with the same texture, thickness and at the same rate than before”.

Dermaplaning, step by step

If you still decide to try this beauty technique, it is important to choose specific blades, as recommended by the perfumery chain Druni, which also indicates the steps to follow:

– Must clean the skin to remove traces of makeup or cosmetics.

– Put the blade on parallel to the face, but with a slight incline.

– With the moist skin, pass the blade slowly, making smooth movements. Avoid the lips, the eyes and their contour and the nose.

– Then you have to hydrate the skin and avoid irritating active ingredients such as retinoids and acids.

From left to right: Primark dermaplaning 3-tool pack (€2.50);  Wilkinson Intuition Perfect Finish blades (€2.95, at Druni);  Hollywood Browzer duo Pastel Pink &  Turquoise (€16.95 at Lookfantastic).
From left to right: Primark dermaplaning 3-tool pack (€2.50); Wilkinson Intuition Perfect Finish blades (€2.95, at Druni); Hollywood Browzer duo Pastel Pink & Turquoise blades (€16.95 at Lookfantastic). – DR

Alternativas al ‘dermaplaning’

Dr. María Marcos recommends «the laser depilatory to remove facial hair. And to improve the tone and texture of the skin, medical and aesthetic treatments such as laser (rejuvenation, pigment, vascular…), mesotherapy, chemical peels, topical depigmentation, topical and oral treatments for acne and oily skin… and cabin treatments that, applied periodically, achieve better results in a more lasting safe way.

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