The sustainable vegetable fiber fabrics that every fashion expert should know

Patricia González Aldea

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Before January 1, 2025, a European directive will oblige the selective collection of textile waste for reuse and recycling thereof. The textile industry is one of the most polluting on the planet, therefore to Juan Vidal, designer and professor at the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda de Madrid (CSDMM), sustainable fashion «is not a trend, it is a necessity. Many brands are coming out that use it as branding, but there will be a moment in this that does not have weight because we will all be obliged to be sustainable, it will not be a distinction but a norm. The brand will have to offer something more because we will all have to be sustainable. The most pointers, below.

Organic flax

R[ECO]NSIDER, the environmentally friendly label from Springfield, bets as a novelty this season for the use of 100% organic linen. «It is a vegetable fiber that respects the environment because it uses the minimum amount of water for its irrigation, being a non-genetically modified rotation crop; that does not generate waste, since the entire plant is used, and the extraction of the fiber is 100% mechanical. In addition, the fact that it is grown in Western Europe favors the savings in terms of logistical contamination that this entails, ”they point out from the firm.

Some garments in this collection have sustainable linen and organic cotton blend, with a percentage of 62% and 38%, respectively. «It is a fiber that provides comfort, thermoregulation, humidity control and is hypoallergenic. It is twice as resistant as cotton, it is resistant to abrasion and it is also easy to care for », they highlight from the Tendam group to which Springfield belongs.

I get

It is one of the fibers natural cellulosic and grows from the plant that bears the same name. «It is biodegradable, breathable, light and soft. In addition, it regulates body temperature and controls humidity, thus becoming one of the natural fibers that best adapt in hot climates. As it is a very fine and short fiber, it’s hard to spin. For this reason the Kapok is mixed with other fibers such as organic cotton “, highlight in the Japanese firm MUJI.

Hemp

It is for MUJI «one of the most ecological clothing textiles that exist. This natural fiber is resistant, it becomes softer with each wash, provides 220% times more fiber than cotton and it is perfect for hot climates as it is highly breathable, moisture wicking and has antibacterial properties. What’s more, the hemp plant grows very fast, without the need for a lot of water or chemicals, which makes production more environmentally friendly than with other fabrics.

The brand presents for this season two limited edition garments, in 100% natural fabrics: straight and buttoned jacket in Kapok, and buttoned and sleeveless dress in hemp.

Hemp “cottony”

It is the bet of Levi’s and the Danish brand GANNI, which for the second time present a sustainable collection of denim garments with this fabric. “Hemp generally requires less water and fewer pesticides to grow than conventionally grown cotton. The hemp used in these garments comes from rainfed hemp crops, which further reduces water consumption. An innovative treatment is then carried out to soften, or ‘cotton’, the fiber, making it look and feel indistinguishable from cotton. ” The collection is made up of 14 garments that include dresses, shirts, jackets, jeans, T-shirts and sweatshirts.

Jute

From the plant of the same name, the fibers are obtained from which many textile products are made, including footwear. Pla is the signature of Irene Peukes, a designer for eight years of shoes at Camper, who manufactures jute shoes and sandals with embroidered ribbons and pine wood soles, as well as a small textile collection. Its motto is “More hands, less machines” and its maxim is respect for materials, people and the environment.

Jute shoes are made in Bangladesh, one of the world’s leading jute producers, through a women’s cooperative according to Fair Trade, each shoe is made with a single jute braid that is finished in Mallorca by artisans who put it the sole consists of two layers, one textile and the other in natural crepe.

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